In today's rapidly urbanizing world, problems such as traffic noise, construction noise, and neighborly disturbances are becoming increasingly prominent, making soundproof windows a pressing need for many. So how do you judge a high-quality soundproof window? We'll explain from the following four dimensions:
I. Glass: Thicker isn't always better; "the right structure is key to effectiveness."
Glass is the core noise reduction component of a soundproof window, but the sound insulation effect of a "single thick pane of glass" is far inferior to that of "composite structure glass." Good soundproof window glass typically possesses the following characteristics:
1. Prioritize "laminated insulated glass": This is currently one of the best combinations for overall sound insulation. The inner layer uses "laminated glass" (PVB film effectively reduces low-to-mid-frequency noise, such as car tire noise and track vibration), while the outer layer is insulated (enhancing high-frequency sound insulation, such as human voices and horns). Laminated insulated glass offers excellent overall sound insulation, its structural design achieving effective control of noise across the entire frequency range through the synergistic effect of different materials.
2. Reject "ordinary double-glazed windows": Many vendors advertise "double-glazed windows" as "soundproof windows," but this structure offers some blocking of high-frequency noise, but its ability to reduce low-frequency noise is extremely weak. Furthermore, if the two panes of glass are of the same thickness, a "coincidence effect" can easily occur (noise will penetrate the glass when the sound wave frequency matches the glass vibration frequency), making it suitable for areas with low noise levels, rather than for true "sound insulation needs."
3. "Differentiated glass thickness": If using double or multi-layered glass, it is recommended that adjacent panes have different thicknesses (e.g., (5mm + 6mm) to avoid the coincidence effect and further improve sound insulation.
II. Window Frame: A two-pronged approach of "sealing + material" to avoid becoming a "sound leakage weakness"
Many people only focus on the glass but neglect the window frame—if the window frame has poor sealing and thin material, even the best glass will allow noise to penetrate through gaps or the frame itself. Good soundproof window frames should meet the following requirements:
1. Choose "thermal break aluminum" or "PVC," reject ordinary aluminum alloy: Ordinary aluminum alloy conducts heat quickly and is thin, easily transmitting noise during vibration; while thermal break aluminum (with a PA66 thermal break strip in the middle to block sound transmission) and PVC (high material density, good sound insulation) have superior sound insulation performance, with thermal break aluminum being more suitable for long-term use due to its strength and durability;
2. Window frame thickness "not less than 60mm": Window frame thickness directly affects sealing and structural stability. It is recommended to choose products with a profile width ≥ 60mm, and the more complex the cavity structure (multi-cavity design), the better the sound insulation effect. The cavity can divide the sound wave propagation path, weakening noise energy;
3. Sealing strips: "Three or more layers, EPDM material preferred": Sealing strips are key to blocking sound leakage through gaps. Good soundproof windows will have three or more sealing strips between the window frame and glass, the window frame and wall, and the window sash and frame. The material of these strips should preferably be EPDM, not ordinary rubber—EPDM is resistant to aging, has good elasticity, and will not deform and fail to seal over long-term use, while ordinary rubber is prone to hardening and cracking, leading to sound leakage problems after 3-5 years.
III. Hardware: "Precision + Durability" to avoid "seal failure" after long-term use
Hardware may seem small, but it directly affects the sealing performance of the window sash—if the hardware is not precise enough, gaps will appear between the window sash and the frame after closing, causing noise to seep in. Good soundproof window hardware requires attention to the following:
1. Choose "multi-point locking," avoid single-point locking: Single-point locks (with locking points only on one side of the window sash) result in uneven contact between the sash and frame when closed, easily creating gaps on the other side. Multi-point locks (with multiple locking points around the sash) allow for even force distribution, ensuring a tight fit with the frame and improving sealing.
2. Prioritize "imported brands or top-tier domestic brands": Brands like HOPO (Germany), SIEGENIA, and Kinlong (China) offer high-precision, wear-resistant hardware that won't loosen or deform even after 10+ years of use, preventing sealing failure due to hardware aging.
IV. Installation: "30% product, 70% installation"—details determine the final result.
Even if the glass, frame, and hardware meet standards, improper installation can compromise sound insulation. A good soundproof window installation must include the following:
1. Filling wall gaps with sound-insulating mortar or sealant: The gaps between the window frame and the wall cannot be filled with ordinary cement (cement is prone to cracking and creating gaps). First, fill with sound-insulating mortar, then apply weather-resistant sealant to the outside (and indoor-grade sealant to the inside) to create a "double seal."
2. Applying neutral silicone sealant, not glass glue, to the glass and window frame: Neutral silicone sealant (strong adhesion, good sealing, and buffers glass vibration) is required to fix the glass to the window frame, not ordinary glass glue (weak adhesion, prone to detachment over time, leading to sound leakage).
3. On-site sound insulation testing after installation: Professional vendors will use a decibel meter to test the indoor noise level after installation, comparing it to the pre-installation values to ensure the sound insulation effect meets the promised standards (generally, a noise reduction of ≥25 decibels is recommended, i.e., when the outdoor noise level is 65 decibels, the indoor noise level should be ≤40 decibels).